Tuesday, October 21, 2008

The beach in black and white




On Rob's day off this weekend we drove down to the Camargue, a National Park an hour and a half south of us. The Camargue is a vast swampy marshland where the Rhône River meets the Mediterranean. The day we went was cloudy and rainy, and the weather seemed in sync with the beauty of the land. The park is home to white horses that run wild, and black bulls grazing their way through adolescence until they are ready for the bullfights. There are many birds, including wild flamingos, a very special sight.




























The highlight of our afternoon was being on the beach. The rain had stopped, it was uncrowded, and we were able to play for awhile.

Valcombe


Our home in Gigondas, Valcombe, seems to be as big a part of our experience here as anything else, and so deserves some blog love.  Valcombe is outside of the center of Gigondas, about a 5-minute walk up the valley from St. Cosme leading to the Dentelles.   It is built into the hillside, thus our nickname for it, the ‘hobbit house’.  Other than it’s hillside orientation, it is perfectly sized for humans rather than hobbits.  


Our neighbors to the right are some of the St. Cosme syrah vines, and in front of us is a small ravine that spring water flows through. It has a small stone patio that is shaded most of the day by big trees, contributing to the green tinge on the grey stone.  The house is rectangular, made of stone and cement, and it’s roof angles down from the level of the road above.  It’s walls are about 18 inches thick, solid and rough, but softened a bit inside because the cement is painted light pink.  It is a great size for us, and even worked well when Sarah’s parents were with us.





It is quiet country living; the only noises we hear are the birds, the spring gurgling, the rain and mistral winds, and maybe a car.  Sometimes we hear the hunting dogs baying, and the occasional gunshot or two (apparently there is good boar hunting in the woods (or vineyards!) on the ridge above us).  


The top two photos are outside and inside views of Valcombe, and the bottom photo is the looking from the winery toward the house, which you can see in the middle after the vines.  

2007 Domaine de L’Echevin Guillaume de Rouville Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint Maurice

Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussane

250 cases produced 

Pale yellow with gold hints.  Nose is not so fruity and delicious!  Nougat, floral-y honeysuckle, lemon cheesecake, orange blossom, and stones.  Not creamy on the palate, medium bodied, but acidity/alcohol synergy gives intensity.  Alcohol at 14% is fully integrated.  Tight and structured palate and citrusy acid highlights the bright finish.  Paired with Pan Done-Up Salmon with Fennel and Pastis.

Tasted on October 20, 2008. 

Tasting Note:  2007 Hauller Vin d’Alsace, Pinot-Blanc

Pale straw color.  Very restrained nose, slight lemon zest and maybe some clay.  Crisp, clean acid, pure on palate.  Some residual sugar is detected, maybe 7 g/L – adds softness and nice balance.  Sarah detects alcohol on finish.  Palate reminiscent of TRW ’06 Delta Riesling in terms of acidity/residual sugar, alcohol balance, but no relation between them on the nose.  Paired with Rob’s guacamole and Sarah’s Famous Flatbread, with a green salad with radishes and red pepper, and a cheese plate (Reblochon and Crottin de Chavignol) for dessert.

Tasted on Oct. 19, 2008

Tasting Note:  2004 Frédérique & Denis Vinson Vinsobres, Cuvée Charles Joseph

The nose is not fruity, some raspberry initially.  Pepper, hot earth/red rocks, restrained.  Simple, balanced on palate.  Round mouthfeel, dusty tannins with red fruits and not much finish.

Tasted Oct. 18, 2008


Tasting Note:  NV Darona Pére & Fils Saint-Péray Brut

Marsanne and roussanne blend

Straw yellow color with gold flecks.  Blossoms, musk, and baking aromas such as brioche, buttered biscuits, and sourdough with citrus undertones on the nose.  Bubbles disappeared quickly upon pouring.  Golden raisons and clove spice on palate.  Some density to the mid-palate, citrusy acidity though not super crisp, and fat on the finish.

Tasted on Oct. 17, 2008

Monday, October 13, 2008

Arles

Arles (kind of pronounced awl-luh in France as Rob found out with some difficulty with his ‘Missouri English accent’) is about an hour and a half south of Gigondas, and we, that is Rob, Sarah and Sarah’s parents Chris and Mick, spent the day there to get a little closer to Arles’ most famous resident, Vincent van Gogh.  The city of Arles has done a wonderful job of paying homage to van Gogh, who lived there for two years after living in Paris with his brother Theo. 


 

Here in Arles, van Gogh was inspired by the provençal light, and it is where he cut off part of his ear in an absinthe-induced fury.  There are easels placed throughout the city in the places he painted his masterpieces, so one can get the idea of what van Gogh possibly saw and his artistic interpretation.  We walked the city, finding the van Gogh sights.  One of our favorite spots was seeing where van Gogh’s ‘Café at Night’ was painted.  The café is still there, probably much as it has been for a century or two, with people sitting and enjoying a slow Sunday afternoon.  In fact, in Roman times this square was a gathering place as well, the ‘Place du Forum’, the political and religious center of Arles.  The Roman arena still stands in Arles, a testament to its long history.  


The top photo is Chris, Mick, Sarah and Rob standing under the plane trees in Arles.  The middle picture is van Gogh's Café at Night, and underneath it is Rob and Sarah standing in the very same spot.  Magic.

Tasting Note:  2007 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre

Biodynamic

Lime juice squeezed over river rock, guava, lemongrass.  Has a “cute” nose, not beautiful like the Mona Lisa or Angelina Jolie.  Tropical, not complex.  New Zealand in character aromatically and on the palate.  A fun wine, with juicy acidity and plenty of ripe Sauvignon character. 

Tasted on Oct. 12, 2008.

Tasting Note:  2004 Cuilleron Cote-Rotie Terres Sombres

The color is a slightly cloudy red with hints of purple, dense-ish.  Nose just out of the bottle is all meat – bacon, proscuitto, animal fat.  This is followed by sweet cedar and oak which becomes integrated over time.  Dr. Pepper aromas, with rose or crushed rose, complemented by cassis, anis, and café mocha.  There is a smoky minerality, almost like BBQ ribs.  Friggin’ complex.  On the palate, the acid is the main player, and the tannin complements.  Polished, fine tannins, medium bodied.  Acid profile is amazing.  Smoky, sweet cedar flavors on a long finish.  Paired with saffron linguini with herb oil and manchego cheese, and they went together beautifully.

Tasted on Oct. 11, 2008

Tasting Note:  2006 Domaine de l’Echevin Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint Maurice


50% 

syrah, 

50% 

grenache 





Color is brilliant red/plum purple, with medium depth.  Garrigue, thyme and pepper on the nose, with stones and minerality.  Cooked raspberry fruit aromas.  Very bright and clean (meaning no funk), a terroir driven wine.  The palate is acid driven, medium bodied weight with velour (like Rob’s hippie pants he made in college) tannins, very seductive.  The high acid has no hard edge and is refreshing.  Short on the finish, but who cares!  This wine has beautiful balance and is a perfect food wine.  We’d actually prefer this wine to more prestigious and expensive wines we’ve ripped apart (aka over-ripe and over-extracted). 

Tasted on Oct. 10, 2008

The photo is from one of the vineyards of Saint Maurice, gorgeous slopes and rocks.

Tasting Note:  2003 Santa Duc Gigondas, Prestige des Hautes Garrigues

Deep ruby red color.  Nose of peppermint and menthol, ripe aromas of prunes and dried cherries.  Light perfume and rose; beautiful and alluring nose.  Medium bodied, an interesting wine – if you chew on it for a minute, it becomes very astringent and lengthens the finish a bit.  Otherwise, if you just sip it quick it appears much softer.  The acid is pronounced, not in harmony.  Finish is relatively short, all dark chocolate.  Could possibly use a couple years more age to integrate. 

Tasted on Oct. 7, 2008

Tasting Note:  2005 A. Hurst Muscat d’Alsace, Grand Cru Brand, Vendanges Tardives

Pale gold color.  Very fragrant nose.  Peach that is at the threshold of being rotten, soft dried apricots, floral and musk perfumes, faint underlying stonyness, marzipan, spicy gewürztraminer-like aromas.  Medium plus body, not very glycerous or oily.  Very sweet wine, a difficult style to pair with food because it isn’t quite dessert wine sweet.  Paired with muenster cheese, and the sweetness overpowered the stinky cheese too much to be enjoyable.  Acid just hangs in there for balance – interesting wine.

**Had the rest of the bottle for dessert the following evening, and it was delicious.  The nose is gorgeous, not heavy on the palate, honeyed and refreshing.  Paired with cantaloupe melon beautifully.

Tasted on Oct. 4th and 5th, 2008

Tasting Note:  2005 Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvee du Baron

Gravely, stony nose (think ‘My Stony Baby’ by 311), as well as hot stones - alcohol is detected here.  Processed fruit aromas such as strawberry licorice, and ‘red fruit compote cake with gravel icing’.  Restrained nose.  Sweet impression in mouth, tight, slight astringency, medium body, flavors of red licorice and Sonic strawberry cheesecake milkshake on finish.  Broad on the mid-palate only, lacks concentration, and a short finish.  “This wine is like the lazy pothead sitting in the back of the classroom coasting along until graduation” in regard to lack of focus.

 

Tasted Oct. 2, 2008

Languedoc Tastings

The Languedoc is a large wine region in southwestern France, which produces huge quantities of wine not known for it's quality.  It is easily found in grocery stores here, and we decided to do a bit of exploring in the region, especially because the price can't be beat.


Tasting Note:  2007 Le Marin Picpoul de Pinet Coteaux du Languedoc

Light yellow/straw with green tinge.  Fresh, fruity nose reminiscent of old world Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.  Lemony, honeydew melon, key lime pie, and clean.  Soft and light in body with citrusy acidity.  Yummy stuff, especially at 3 euros.

Tasted Oct. 1, 2008

 

Tasting Note:  2006 Domaine Des Lambrusques Pic Saint-Loop Coteaux du Languedoc

Syrah and Grenache.  Perfumed nose, not super fruity.  Medium body, slightly astringent, lightly drying.  Great table wine, fantastic for the price (3 euros).

Tasted Oct. 3, 2008

 

Tasting Note:  NV Domaine Rosier Blanquette de Limoux Brut

Funky funky funk nose.  Major musk, and a sulfuric essence, maybe salt lick.  Full, mouth encompassing mousse, a little rough, no finesse.  Spiced apple and cider on the palate, medium acid.  Excellent aperitif, again great for the price (5 euros).

Tasted on Oct. 5, 2008

Monday, October 6, 2008

Marseille


We caught our first look at the Mediterranean on a weekend trip down to Marseille at the end of September.  We spent a short time at Cassis, a small coastal town thrity minutes from Marseille before getting to our hotel.  Cassis is very beautiful, built into a small cove with crystal clear waters.  We were surprised by how busy it was, since we were under the impression touirst season was about over, but loved it anyhow.  Marseille is definately a highlight of our time spent in France.  It was nice to be in a big busy city for a bit, much different than our little town of Gigondas.   The diversity of culture is fantastic, and the marine environment is intoxicating.  There are endless dining options, and we had a delicious dinner at a Moroccan restraunt of chicken tagines.  

 
In the morning we woke to the noisy pier-side market, booths full of provençal soaps, linens, honeys, and all sorts of wonderful delights.  But one cannot escape the smell or draw of the fish stands, proudly displaying the catch of the day.  The selection was incredible, so many fish we had never seen before.  It was quite fantastic to see people buying their fish for dinner there, a totally different experience than buying from the seafood section at the grocery store.

After some navigating difficulties, we made our way out of Marseille to the nearby airport, where we picked up Sarah's parents, Chris and Mick, who came to visit us from Colorado.  We haven't been out of the US for too long really, but it was so great to see family! 

Tasting Note:  1880 Marsala Sicily

1880 is not a typo! And 1880 was not the year the vineyard was planted.  Yes, indeed, we tasted an 1880 vintage Marsala from the Southern Mediterranean island of Sicily.  Perfectly aged for 128 years, the color was a beautiful coppery amber.  Haunting aromas of toffee embedded tar and burnt caramel.  Vivacious on the palate and woodsy in character.  This wine topped off an amazing night of eating and drinking merrily with a  with great group of local and international winemakers.  Other highlights of the night:

 

2001 Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard Pouilly-Fumé

1988 Vieux Telegraph

1988 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz

1996 St. Cosme Gigondas

1993 Paul Pernot Batard Montrachet Gran Cru 

 

Tasted on Sept. 26, 2008.      

Tasting Note:  2007 Chapoutier Deschants, St. Joseph Blanc

Tropical flavors are the first impression, pineapple and mango skin especially.  Followed by notes of lemon zest, orange creamsicle, and a slight candy corn sweetness.  Hints of smoke shadow the fruit.  The palate is soft, medium bodied, with medium plus acidity.  The palate at times appears almost lean, with not a lot of weight, and all the while remains very nicely balanced.  A scrumptious spiced finish with cinnamon, clove and orange.

 

Tasted on Sept. 23, 2008.

From The Top of Provence



Hello!  Apollogies for the delay in posts, internet is not readily available.  We are trying our best, so please don't give up on us!!

As foreigners in Southern France, there is never a shortage of sights and destinations to fill the non-working hours.  And happily, some are close to home, requiring just a few hours, perfect for a weary ‘flying’ winemaker.  On a recommendation from Rick Steves’ Provence book, we did a drive around the hill towns of the Cote du Rhone, circling the Dentelles du Montmirail, the limestone ridge Gigondas is nestled against.  We took a slight detour and drove to the top of Mont Ventoux, famous for its role in the Tour-du-France.  The mountain is the largest in the region, and climbs to 1910 meters.  When you reach the top you feel as if you are miles or planets away, it is so different from the provencal beauty you left only 30 minutes ago.  Green and trees give way to bare rock, warmth and sunshine is cut through by a ceaseless wind that plunges the temperature.  It really is astonishing – on a clear day, you can see almost to the Mediterranean, then to the French Alps, and assumingly into Italy. 

 

As we continued our driving tour, we came across the tiny town of Suzette, which is located on the backside of the Dentelles from Gigondas.  The scenery is quite different; the rock outcroppings are more dramatic, and while the hillsides are still planted with vines as they are in Gigondas, the earth is perceivably different.  The land is brick orange, an iron rich clay opposed to the white limestone that dominates in Gigondas.  It has been an incredible education on terroir here.  


The top photo is us on the top of Mont Ventoux, freezing because we are under dressed, and the photo underneath is the vineyards near Suzette.